Saturday, 9 April 2011

Crunch day!

This morning I cut out the drill lining to the pattern I made yesterday. It needed 1/8" taking in on the double at the centre front waist, and a small pinch at the neck side of the shoulder seams. I have decided to iron on a stiffening fabric - I think it's like a soft buckram - and add a rigilene and white steel bone at the centre front to keep it straight. It is a fraction loose at the waist but will need that to go over the skirt, which S. and I decided together should be flat pleated. However, I shall not cut off the extra fabric, as it will, as I thought, add a little to the hips. Photos below in case you are interested in the layers.

Hunnisett late Elizabethan stays, front

and back.

The so called biscuit pad, which I can now see needs a little more taken out of it.

The petticoat, with integral forepart.

Back of the original bodice - I see the petticoat needs a little more help pushing out at the back, which will be done with the pad alteration.

Ans the new front, before the tiny tightening. The neckline will be narrower by 5/8" but I don't cut this until it is ready for piping.

Tomorrow, I have to make the little alterations, cut the silk for the bodice and mount it, with the stiffening and boning, braid - ugh!, stitch on and neaten the seams, then pipe bottom and neckline. Bind the armholes, and hand stitch in the sleeves and the wings, and sew on umpty hooks and loops and ditto gold buttons, all by Wednesday. Hmm, better start early then!

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